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Re: [Rollei] OT: Large Format



Professor Knoppow wrote:

"For the most part nearly any Graphic or Graflex camera can be put back in
working condition if its not an absolute junker. 
  Fred Lustig is the best at this. He has a stock of parts from the 
defunct
Graflex company and knows the cameras very well. He doesn't like to sell
parts. 
 There are still good Graphics available, they were built by the 
thousands. 
 They have limitations: they are not replacements for a real view camera.
However all were made for hand held use and are remarkably easy to use 
once
you get used to them. 
  Like Rolleis they were well designed and built to last."

If I may add some comments of my own:

Fred Lustig seems to have a good supply of parts but he appears to be 
more interested in selling repairs than providing the parts themselves. 
He quoted a price of $235 for a replacement focal plane shutter (wether 
or not he did the replacing). This is unrealistic when decent Pacemaker 
Speed Graphics, with working shutters, can be had for 3/4 that price.


The Speed and Crown Graphics are really in a different catergory from 
Rolleis or 35 mm camera when it comes to repairs. The Graphics are far 
larger and not nearly so densely packed with mechanism; there is also 
less to go wrong. It is actually practical to do your own body repairs as 
the mechanisms are easily understood. A decent set of jewelers 
screwdrivers, tweezers, and a small pair of pliers is adequate for most 
repairs.

(1) For guidance on body repairs I recommend the Air Force Technical 
Manual reprints frequently offered for sale on eBay for about $10 (for 
Pacemaker Graphics). Plently of exploded diagrams and instructions on how 
to repair the focal plane shutter.

(2) If there is a rangefinder problem, it usually requires replacement of 
the half silvered moving mirror. Ed Romney has a web page (linked from 
Graphlex.org) with useful instructions on how to do this. I've done five 
rangefinders using sections cut from the same Edmund Scientific 
beamsplitter and I still have some pieces left. Rangefinder calibration 
instructions are on the Graphlex website. This is an inexpensive repair 
to carry out. Remember that the little brass lockscrew inside the 
rangefinder is left handed - don't break it off trying to convince it to 
be righthanded.

(3) Sticky Graphex shutters respond well to the lighter fluid 
flush/lighter fluid graphite lube sequence. Every Graphex which I've done 
this on (five so far, and one gummy Prontor press) have freed up easily 
this way and continue to work reliably. I've had no luck at all with 
Kodak shutters. Remove the glass, of course, before you go squirting 
lighter fluid into things and let the shutter dry completely before you 
reinstall the lenses.

(4) The leather covering cleans up nicely with black shoe polish followed 
by several coates of clear buffing wax (Johnson's or Butchers's work 
fine). For scalped areas of leather, redye them black with liquid shoe 
polish
first.

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