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[Rollei] SL66 Do's and Don'ts
- Subject: [Rollei] SL66 Do's and Don'ts
- From: David Seifert <dseifert >
- Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:45:43 -0700
- References: <200204190701.AAA03565
The SL66 is the king of the interlocks! You will find that you will be
unable to remove the back if the darkslide is not in place. You will find
that you can't release the shutter with the darkslide in place. Sometimes
people use specially modified darkslides to get the camera and back
separated when thing go seriously bad. I took my "locked" SL66 to Harry
Fleenor and in a matter of seconds he had it made right by using the
special darkslide and some special knowledge. Too many people have the
special darkslide but not the knowledge. Where things get bad is if you
remove the back then dry fire the camera and then try to reattach the back.
Whether you wind immediately after exposure is your choice. I tend to do
so in order for the camera to be at the ready when it is time for the next
shot. It is only critical that shutter be cocked prior to removing the
back. Since rear body caps are all but unavailable it seems unlikely that
any prudent person would store their SL66 body without a back
attached. This being the case the admonition about having the shutter
cocked prior to removing the back probably only applies to changing backs.
It has often been discussed whether shutters should be stored in a cocked
or uncocked state. It seems that Synchro-Compur leaf shutters are designed
to be stored in the cocked state, as counter intuitive as that seems. My
understanding is that the only exception to this is that perhaps the older
Compur-Rapid shutters should not be stored with the shutter speed set to
the highest speed which tensions a second spring. Apparently the springs
in these things a incredibly strong and aren't weakened by just being
tensioned. I suspect the same is true for the SL66 FP shutter. I had an
SL66 with shutter curtains so badly decayed that the shutter would hang
in the course of traversing the film aperture. The camera needed new
shutter curtains but no new springs or other parts were needed.
Does this answer the question?
At 08:25 AM 4/19/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks for the links, David.
>As to shutter winding, let's see if I've got this right. On my Rolleiflex
>Automat, its best to avoid winding the film and cocking the shutter until
>I'm ready for the next picture. Same with my Nikon F, by the way: the extra
>large shutter release (AR-1?) tends to release when I put the case back on.
>On the SL66, its critical to wind it after snapping the picture. Is that
>right? What about the darkslide?